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Air Infiltration - How Tight is Good Enough?

3/9/2013

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Air Infiltration Standards
There are several energy standards to choose from.  Each one has a different intent.  A standard that works for Germany or Minnesota might not be the most appropriate for Miami or the Bahamas.

Consequently, the standards for air infiltration vary dramatically and don't provide good guidance on their own. The three main standards are IECC, Energy Star and Passive House.  Passive House is the most strict while the IECC is absurdly lax.   Here are the maximum ACH50 rates for the various standards.

    - IECC (Georgia code)                          7
    - Energy Star for climate zones 3,4       5
    - Energy Star for climate zones 5,6,7    4
    - Passive House                                  0.6

So, Passive House is more than ten times better than current code and about 8 times better than Energy Star requirements.

But how much is good enough?  We can do some calculations based on the previous Baseline design to estimate the energy savings.  As a spoiler alert,  fans of Passive House might want to skip this section.
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The table on the right shows the annual BTUs and cost of air infiltration for different levels or air tightness.  This is assuming an Air Heat Pump with a cost of $1.76 per therm.

There is, of course, a law of diminishing returns. Cutting from 7 -> 2 (roughly a factor of 3) saves about $350 per year.   Further improvement from 2 -> 0.6 (roughly a factor of 3) only saves an additional $98/year.

It would seem that meeting the Passive House air infiltration standard is not a cost effective goal.  We can probably find less expensive ways to save another $98 / year on energy.

Going forward, I'll assume a goal of hitting an air tightness of ACH50 = 2.   Recalculating the heat load and cost shows that this reduces the annual heating load by about 20M BTU and that air infiltration now accounts for only 12.82% of the heating load.

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By far, the windows are the greatest heat load (almost 45%).  In future posts I'll look at the solar gain and show that the south facing windows can collect more heat than they lose.
Primary Sources of Air Infiltration
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Daffodils - and Snow!

3/6/2013

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The microclimate up in the mountains is unique and doesn't conform to the expectations of Passive House or Energy Star standards.

The last week of January brought the daffodils into full bloom on sunny or south facing areas.

The next day brought lots of snow, dangerous roads and dense fog.   What a difference in just 24 hours!!

Just 5 miles away (and 1000 feet lower in elevation) there was no snow at all.

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Baseline Design Part III - Estimating Energy Costs (without solar)

3/3/2013

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In this post I'll calculate the approximate cost for heating the Baseline design.  At this stage, I'm still not accounting for any solar gain.... this is the worst case analysis if the sun never shines or if we choose windows with poor SHGC characteristics.

The table below, lists the energy content and approximate cost for different solutions.  Natural gas isn't available where we're building, but I included it in the table for comparison.   The efficiencies listed for Air and Geothermal heat pumps are just approximations.
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In a moderate climate, the Air Heat Pump is a cost effective alternative to burning natural gas or propane.

The next table shows the approximate BTU heat load for various aspects of the structure and the cost of providing the heat using different solutions.   As mentioned in previous posts, the biggest opportunity for savings is by making the structure more airtight and improving the air infiltration.
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Clearly, LP and resistance electric heating are poor choices so I'll eliminate them from further consideration.   LP, in particular, has been through volatile price swings over the past several years so we've decided that neoTerra will be all electric with a fireplace or wood stove for backup heat.
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To summarize, heating with an Air Heat Pump will cost approximately $1300 / year, based on the estimated baseline heating load and current cost of electricity.  We will keep improving the design from this point.

In addition, going all electric will avoid the costs of installing an underground propane tank and plumbing the house for LP. 

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Baseline Design Part II - Estimating the Heating Load

3/2/2013

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This post will show a rough estimate of the total annual heating load not taking any solar gain into account.   This will provide a baseline estimate of how much energy (and $$) can be saved annually.

Assumptions
As a quick summary, the assumptions are listed below:
 - Total Heating Degree Days        3905
 - Ceiling R-Value                            38
 - Wall R-Value (2x6)                       24
 - Low E windows R-Value                 3.57   (U = .28)
 - ACH50                                          7   

A preliminary floor plan is shown below.   Although we're still making a lot of revisions, it's close enough to make some estimates of heating load.
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The front of the house faces north and the back faces south.

The footprint is roughly 2175 square feet with a full basement.

There's about 960 square feet of windows.  I know this is way too much for an energy efficient design but the views are worth it.  We will have to compensate by making improvements in other areas.

First floor walls are about 2263 square feet.   The basement walls are about 2480 square feet and the total volume is about 42,750 cubic feet.


Heat Loss Through Insulation
This is a rough estimate so I'm taking some shortcuts.
I'm going to treat the basement walls the same as the first floor, although the basement is not primary living space and generally will be left at a much cooler temperature.  On the other hand, I'm also ignoring any heat loss through the basement floor.

The general formula is to divide the area by the R value to get a heat loss per degree per hour and then multiply by the total number of Heating Degree Days times 24 hours in a day.  
 
    Heating Load in BTU per Year = (Area / R) x HDD x 24

    - Ceiling                 ( 2175 / R38 ) x 93,720    =      5,364,236 BTU per year
    - 1st floor walls       ( 2263 / R24 ) x 93,720    =      8,837,015 
    - basement walls    ( 2480 / R24 ) x 93,720    =      9,684,400
    - Windows             (  960 / R3.57) x 93,720   =     25,139,453


Heat Loss Due to Air Infiltration
To estimate heat loss from air infiltration, we have to calculate the cubic feet of air lost per hour and then calculate the amount of heat lost based on heating degree days.

The minimum code allows 7 air changes per hour using a pressure test at 50 pascals.  Since the house has a total voume of 42,750 cubic feet (counting the basement) then code would allow a loss of 299,250 cubic feet of air per hour or 4988 cubic feet per minute (CFM).  That is a LOT of air!

To estimate the amount of air that would be lost in normal (i.e. natural)  conditions we divide by a fudge factor called the Energy Climate Factor.  For the North Central climate zone the Energy Climate Factor is 20... I don't know how they came up with this, I merely looked it up. 

     ACH(normal) = ACH(50) / N where N is defined to be 20

     ACH(normal) = 7 / 20 = 0.35  air changes per hour 
 
This indicates that under normal conditions the house will vent 14,963 cubic feet of air per hour or 269 CFM.  This is still a LOT of air!

To calculate total BTUs per hour you multiply by the Specific Heat (SH) for air.  Specific Heat (SH) is the term that describes how many BTUs are contained in one cubic foot of material (per degree).   Air isn't very dense and doesn't carry much heat.  Air has a Specific Heat of .018 BTU per cubic foot per degree.

So the heat loss per hour per degree equals the voulume of air times the SH.

     Heat Loss per hour per degree = (ACH50 x SH=0.018) / N=20

     14,963 x .018 = 269 BTUs  per hour per degree

To get the annual heat loss we multiply the hourly heat loss by the Heating Degree Days (HDD) times 24 hours in a day.
     269 x 93720 = 25,241,139 BTU per year


Summary
 The following table summarizes the annual heat loss for the baseline design. 
  

    - R38 Ceiling                       5,364,237                7.2%
    - R24 1st floor walls             8,837,015              11.9%
    - R24 basement walls          9,684,400              13%
    - R 3.57 Windows              25,139,453              33.8%
    - Air Infiltration (ACH = 7)   25,241,139              34%
    - TOTAL                           74,266,244
  
Though it seems counter-intuitive, the R38 ceiling is the least concern since it is only responsible for 7.2% of the heat loss.  The walls have a much larger surface area and loose more heat than the ceiling.  The biggest opportunity for improvement is air infiltration.

In the next post, I'll calculate the energy cost for a few different heating systems
   
  

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